GB/T 5326-1997 Combed polyester-cotton blended printed and dyed fabrics
Some standard content:
GB/T5326--1997
This standard is revised from GB/T5326--89 "Combed polyester-cotton blended printed and dyed fabrics" based on ASTMD3477-84 "Standard Performance Specifications for Men's Shirts", ASTMD4038-81 "Standard Performance Specifications for Women's Tops and Shirts", ASTMD4232--83 "Standard Performance Specifications for Men's and Women's Underwear and Casual Wear" and Japan Textile Inspection Association "Cotton Fabric (Finished) Export Inspection Standards". Its superior products are equivalent to the international advanced level, and first-class products are close to the international general level. In this way, through the revision, this standard is completely consistent with GB/T 411--93 standard in terms of assessment items, rating regulations and appearance defect scoring methods. The writing rules are in full compliance with the requirements of GB/T1.1-1993, which greatly facilitates the production enterprises to implement the two standards of "Cotton Printed and Dyed Fabric" and "Combed Polyester-Cotton Blended Printed and Dyed Fabric" at the same time, and promotes the orderly production of enterprises. In terms of the scope of application, this standard is expanded to polyester-cotton blended printed and dyed fabrics containing 50% or more polyester staple fibers. In terms of the assessment of intrinsic quality, this standard changes the shrinkage rate item to the change in size after washing, making the standard more standardized in terms of expression. In the color fastness item, the assessment index of coating dyeing is added to make the standard more suitable for the needs of the industry, and the distinction between deep, medium and light dyed fabrics is cancelled, and the width of polyester-cotton printed and dyed fabrics is changed to four levels, and the assessment is above 150cm. The breaking strength is set as a minimum value as an assessment index according to the characteristics of the final product.
This standard is completely consistent with GB/T411-93 in the scoring method of appearance quality. The original 4-point system is changed to a 10-point system, which is divided into superior products, first-class products, second-class products, and third-class products. Products below the third-class level are substandard products. Appendix A and Appendix B of this standard are both standard appendices. Appendix C of this standard is a reminder appendix. From the date of entry into force, this standard will replace GB/T5326-89 at the same time. This standard is proposed by the Science and Technology Development Department of the China Textile Association. This standard is under the jurisdiction of the Shanghai Textile Standard and Metrology Institute. The drafting units of this standard: Shanghai Textile Standard and Metrology Institute, Hebei Textile Association. 93
1 Scope
National Standard of the People's Republic of China
Combed polyester/cotton printed and dyed fabrics
Combed polyester/cotton printed and dyed fabricsGB/T 5326- 1997
Replaces GB/T5326--89
This standard specifies the product classification, technical requirements, test methods, inspection rules, packaging and marking of combed polyester/cotton printed and dyed fabrics. This standard is applicable to the quality identification of various bleached, dyed and printed fabrics containing 50% or more combed polyester staple fibers blended with cotton for clothing.
2 Referenced Standards
The provisions contained in the following standards constitute the provisions of this standard through reference in this standard. When this standard is published, the versions shown are valid. All standards are subject to revision, and parties using this standard should explore the possibility of using the latest versions of the following standards. GB250-1995 Grey scale for assessing change in colour GB251-1995 Grey scale for assessing staining GB/T420-84 Textiles - Test method for colour fastness to washing GB/T3920-1997 Textiles - Test for colour fastness - Colour fastness to rubbing GB/T3921.3-1997 Textiles - Test for colour fastness - Colour fastness to washing: Test 3 GB/T3922-1995 Textiles - Test method for colour fastness to perspiration GB/T3923.1-1997 Textiles - Tensile properties of fabrics - Part 1: Determination of breaking strength and elongation at break - Strip method
GB/T4667-1995 Woven fabrics - Determination of width of fabric GB/T4668-1995 Woven fabrics - Determination of density of fabric GB/T6152-1997 Textiles - Test for colour fastness - Colour fastness to hot pressing GB/T 8427—87
Textiles-Test method for colour fastness to light (xenon arc smear test)GB/T 8628—88
Preparation, marking and measurement of test specimens for the determination of dimensional changes in fabricsGB/T 8629—88
Household washing and drying procedures for testing textilesGB/T 8630—88
Determination of dimensional changes of textiles on washing and dryingGB/T14801—93Test method for weft skewness and bow in woven and knitted fabricsFZ/T 10005--93
Test rules for cotton and man-made fiber pure and blended printed and dyed fabricsFZ/T100101996Marking and packaging of cotton and man-made fiber pure and blended printed and dyed fabricsMethod for correction of breaking strength of cotton and man-made fiber pure and blended products by temperature and moisture regainZB/T W04 006.3—89
Correction method for the breaking strength of printed and dyed fabrics
3 Definitions
3.1 Line defect
Defects extending along the warp or weft direction with a width not exceeding 0.2 cm. Strip defect
Approved by the State Administration of Technical Supervision on June 30, 199791
Implemented on December 1, 1997
GB/T 5326-1997
Defects extending along the warp or weft direction with a width exceeding 0.2 cm (including blocks). 3.3 Thin and thick places Thin and thick places Horizontal bars caused by thin weft, thick places, tear marks, etc. of bad fabric extending along the weft direction. 3.4 Broken place
Refers to holes, broken edges, broken edges, and jump patterns of more than 0.3 cm, etc. 3.5 Cannage
Bending shape caused by the movement of weft yarns in thin fabrics. 3.6 Original fabric
Original fabric with the same fiber material and the same fabric structure as the production sample. 3.7 Reference fabric
Original fabric with different fiber material or fabric structure from the production sample. 3.8 Gingham pattern
The pattern has stripes and grids, the warp and weft directions intersect each other, and the lines with a warp distance of more than 0.5cm between the stripes and grids are vertically shaped into a grid or the pattern is horizontal. 4 Classification
Combed polyester-cotton blended printed and dyed fabrics are classified according to varieties and specifications. The varieties and specifications of various products are formulated according to user needs in combination with Appendix A of this standard.
5 Requirements
Requirements are divided into two aspects: intrinsic quality and appearance quality. Intrinsic quality includes weft yarn density, breaking strength, washing size change and dyeing fastness. Appearance quality includes two types of defects: local defects and scattered defects. 5.1 Intrinsic quality
5.1.1 Weft density
According to the specifications of combed polyester-cotton blended grey fabrics, the assessment requirements shall be calculated and formulated in combination with Appendix A of this standard. 5.1.2 Breaking strength
The technical requirements for breaking strength are shown in Table 1.
Table 1 Technical requirements for breaking strength
Fabric structure name
Gauze fine plain cloth, gauze poplin, gauze khaki
Yarn khaki and other yarn fabrics
5.1.3 Washing size change
Not less than
The washing size change requirements for various products of different fabric structures are shown in Table 2. Table 2 Technical requirements for dimensional change after washing
Fabric name
Gauze muslin, gauze poplin
Fiber content
Polyester/cotton
Not less than
Not less than
Fabric name
Gauze khaki, yarn khaki
Gabardine and other yarn fabrics
GB/T 5326--1997
Table 2 (end)
Fiber content
Polyester/cotton
1 The dimensional change after washing shall not exceed +1.0%. Warp
Not less than
2 For products that do not meet the width processing coefficient specified in Appendix A of this standard, a separate agreement may be made. 5.1.4 Color fastness
Depending on the dyes used, the color fastness requirements are shown in Table 3. Table 3 Technical requirements for color fastness
Dyed fabrics
Dye name
Disperse/reactive
Disperse/naphtal
Disperse/reduced
Disperse/sulfurized
Single dyeing reduced
Printed fabrics
Coating/other dyes
Color fastness
Color fastness to light is the guaranteed index.
Friction resistance
2—-3
Scrubbing resistance
2——3
Perspiration resistance
Only light colors among reduced dyes need to be evaluated for perspiration fastness. The dark, medium and light grades are evaluated according to GB250. Light colors are below grade 2. 2
3For those with specified indicators of grade 1 to 2, it is not allowed to be lowered by half a grade. 5.2 Appearance quality
5.2.1 The scoring regulations for local defects are shown in Table 4. 96
Not less than
Ironing resistance
Bin spot name and degree
Sparse road
Ruffles
Obviously deep
Rating number
Depth 1.0 and less
Depth above 1.0
Depth above 0.8
Depth 2.0
Depth 1.5 or more
Depth 2.0
Depth above 0.8
Depth 1.5 Above
Affect the appearance Slub
Waste woven into
GB/T5326—1997
Table 4 Local defect scoring table
1.0~~50.0
0.5 and within
1.0~Half width
0.5 and within
Half width and within
Every 10.0 and within
Every 18.0 and within
Every 100.0 and within
Every 100.0 and within
Half width and within
Above 1.0~12. 0
2.5 or more~10.0|10.0 or more~20.0|20.0 or more~100.0|Third gradeThird grade
5.0 or more~25.02
25.0 or more~50.050.0 or more~100.0
0. 5 or more~~2. 0
Half width or more
2. 5 or more~10. 0
5.0 or more~half width
0. 5 or more~~2. 0
Half width or more
2 wires in total for warp and weft
Every 10.0 or less
Every 18.0 or less
Every 100.0 or less
0. 2 ~0. 3
12.0 or more~half
2.0 or more~4.0
10.0 or more~half
Half or more
2.0 or more~4.0
Half or less
Every 100.0 or less
Half or more
4.0 or more~100. 0
More than half width
More than 4.0～Full width
More than half width
Warp and weft are broken 3
Root to 2cm
Coarseness 0.3 or more
More than half width
5.2.2 Scoring instructions for local defects
GB/T5326—1997
5.2.2.1 Minor and obvious local defects refer to the gray sample card for color change assessment in GB250, 4 is minor, 3-4 and below are obvious.
5.2.2.2 Except for damage and edge defects, other defects within 1.0cm from the edge will not be scored. Defects more than 1.0cm from the edge will be scored by half according to the relevant defects in Table 4. Holes within 2 cm from the edge will be scored as broken edges, and broken edges and gaps more than 2cm from the edge will be scored as holes. 5.2.2.3 When warp shrinkage, warp breakage and weft loss affect the appearance, they shall be scored as similar obvious defects. When they do not affect the appearance, no score shall be given. Double wefts of plain weave shall be scored as slight.
5.2.2.4 The surface defects of printed fabrics shall be evaluated according to the degree of impact on the overall effect. 5.2.3 Provisions for measuring appearance defects
5.2.3.1 When evaluating surface defects, the front of the fabric shall be used as the standard. 5.2.3.2 The length of the defect shall be measured according to the maximum length in the warp or weft direction. When the length of the warp defect exceeds 100 cm (including slight linear defects exceeding 50 cm) or the hole exceeds 2 cm, the excess part shall be measured separately from 0.1 cm and the score shall be accumulated. All curved defects shall be measured according to the maximum distance of the actual affected area; overlapping defects shall be evaluated according to the highest score. 5.2.3.3 If all kinds of defects except damage exist at the same time within 100cm in the warp direction, they shall be measured and scored cumulatively. The maximum cumulative score shall not exceed 10 points.
5.2.3.4 For scattered spots that are difficult to count and measure, they shall be measured and scored cumulatively according to their maximum length and severity, referring to the defects in the warp or weft direction.
5.2.3.5 If the same local defects exist in the same cloth section, the cumulative score shall not exceed the downgrade limit of the defect. If other local defects exist and need to be scored cumulatively, the starting point score of the downgraded grade plus the score of the local defects to be accumulated can be used as the total score of the cloth section.
5.2.4 Localized defects not allowed for graded products
5.2.4.1 Obvious defects with a score of 10 points shall be scored separately. 5.2.4.2 For cloth sold in the market, a single obvious defect of 5 points (except for weft linear defects and deep and shallow edges) or 10 points (including saw-like feet and sundries woven into the fabric) and a minor defect of 10 points for warp strips. 5.2.4.3 Obvious defects with a cumulative score of 10 points within 50cm. 5.2.4.4 Three damages within 0.5cm or less from the edge and 3cm or less in the warp direction per 30m, and damages more than 0.5cm from the edge. 5.2.4.5 Obvious defects that affect the appearance and do not reach the starting point of the score, appearing continuously or with a cumulative score of 5 points within 50cm. 5.2.4.6 Ruffles longer than 18cm. Needle holes deeper than 2cm, cumulatively exceeding one-tenth of the length of the section. 5.3 Grading regulations
5.3.1 See Table 5 for the internal quality rating regulations. Table 5 Internal quality rating regulations
Root/10cm
Breaking strength
Dimensional change after washing
Color fastness
Regulations by variety
See Table 1
See Table 2
See Table 3
Superior products
Meet the standards
Meet the standards
Warp direction -1.2%
One half grade lower
First-class products
—2% and below
Meet the standards
Meet the standards
Among which
Two items are allowed to be lower by half a grade
Second-grade products
Above 2%
Meet the standards
Below the provisions in Table 2
Below the first-grade products
Allowable deviation
Third-grade products
Meet the standards
Substandard products
Below the provisions in Table 1
5.3.2 For the provisions on appearance quality evaluation, see Table 6
Allowable range
Width is within 100 cm and within
Local defects
Width 100cm~135cm
Permitted score per meter
Width 135cm~150cm
Width 150cm and above
100 cm and within
Dispersion
100 cm and above
~135 cm
Above 135cm
Bleached cloth
Bleached cloth
Left, center, right
Front and back
Stripes, flower slant or weft slant
Pattern mismatch, dyeing mismatch
Dark and shallow fine dots
GB/T5326-1997
Table 6 Appearance quality rating regulations
Superior products
+2. 0, 0. 5
+2.5,-1.0
+3.0,—1.5
3.0 and below
Does not affect the appearance
Does not affect
Does not affect
First-class products
+2. 5, -1. 5
+ 3. 0, — 2. 0
4 or more
3—4 or more
3. 0 or more～3. 5
No impact on appearance
No impact
No impact
Second-grade products
+2. 5, --1. 5
+3. 0, -2. 0
+3.5,—2.5
Below 3--4
Below 23
Below 2—3
Below 2
Below 3—4
3.5 or more～5.0
Affect appearance
1 Color difference shall be evaluated according to GB250. Left, middle and right color difference, front and back color difference, inconsistent patterns or dyeing not lower than the level of third-grade products are substandard products. Third grade
+2.5 or above,
1.5 or above
+3.0 or above,
2.0 or above
+3.5 or above,
2.5 or above
5.0 or aboveWww.bzxZ.net
Obviously affects the appearance
2Obvious defects that affect the appearance but do not reach the starting point of the score are concentrated within 50cm and scored locally. For white and light colors, 1 point is awarded for every 3 pieces, and for dark and medium-colored fabrics, 1 point is awarded for every 4 pieces.
3Specially finished products (sandwich, glossy, etc.) have color differences on the front and back sides, and separate agreements are made. Color differences on the front and back sides of single-sided fabrics such as twill and straight twill are not assessed. However, if there are scattered obvious defects on the back of gabardine, double-sided card, poplin, and plain fabrics, the grade must be reduced by one level, and printed reverse printing and serge are reduced by one level, and single-sided twill and satin fabrics are reduced by two levels. 99
GB/T 5326-- 1997
5.3.3 The total score allowed for local defects in different grades of cloth segments is calculated by multiplying the length of the cloth segment (those less than 1m are not counted) by the corresponding number of allowed scores per meter in Table 6, and rounding to an integer. 5.3.4 Grading principles
5.3.4.1 In the same section of cloth, the intrinsic quality is rated by the lowest item; local defects are rated by the limited number of allowed scores per meter; scattered defects are rated by the most serious item. 5.3.4.2 In the same section of cloth, the grade of local defects is first evaluated, and then combined with the grade of scattered defects to determine the grade as the grade of the appearance quality of the section of cloth. The combined grading method is specified in Table 7. Table 7 Combined rating method
Appearance quality grade
Local point grade
Dispersed defect grade
Superior products
First-class products
Second-class products
Third-class products
Superior products
Superior products
First-class products
Second-class products
Third-class products
First-class products
First-class products
Second-class products
Third-class products
Those that are continuously damaged and downgraded to substandard products shall be handled by negotiation between the supply and demand parties according to their actual use value. 2 Substandard products with serious appearance defects that have lost their service value shall be handled as scrap cloth. Second-class products
Second-class products
Second-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
Third-class products
5.3.4.3 The internal quality is graded by criticism, and the appearance quality is graded by section. The grade of the finished product is graded according to the lowest grade of the internal quality and the appearance quality, and is divided into superior products, first-class products, second-class products, and third-class products. Those lower than the third-class products are substandard products. 6 Test methods
6.1 Width shall be in accordance with GB/T4667.
6.2 Weft density shall be in accordance with GB/T4668.
6.3 Breaking strength shall be in accordance with GB/T3923.1. The processing coefficient for calculating breaking strength is shown in Appendix A. 6.4 Breaking strength correction coefficient is shown in Appendix B. 6.5 The dimensional change after washing shall be in accordance with GB/T8628, GB/T8629 (4A for washing and F for drying) and GB/T8630. 6.6 The color fastness to light shall be in accordance with method 3 in GB/T8427. 6.7 The color fastness to washing shall be in accordance with GB/T3921.3. 6.8 The color fastness to rubbing shall be in accordance with GB/T3920. 6.9 The color fastness to perspiration shall be in accordance with GB/T3922. 6.10 The color fastness to ironing shall be in accordance with the temperature of 150℃±2℃ in GB/T6152. 6.11 The color fastness to washing shall be in accordance with 50 times in GB/T420. 6.12 The color change and color difference shall be in accordance with GB250, and the color staining shall be in accordance with GB251. 6.13 The test method for weft skew and bow of woven and knitted fabrics shall be in accordance with GB/T14801. 6.14 Appearance quality inspection conditions
6.14.1 When using lighting inspection, use 3~4 40W blue fluorescent lamps with a shading, the illumination is not less than 7501x, and the distance between the light source and the cloth surface is 1~1.2m.
6.14.2 The angle of the cloth inspection board of the cloth inspection machine is 45°, and the cloth speed is up to 40m/min. The cloth rating inspection is graded according to the defect marks made on the cloth inspection machine.
GB/T5326—1997
6.14.3 For the re-inspection and acceptance of cloth, the cloth should be spread flat on the cloth inspection table and inspected piece by piece. The inspector's line of sight should face the cloth surface, and the distance between the eyes and the cloth surface should be 55~60cm.
6.14.4 It is stipulated that the front side of the cloth to be inspected (the side with the cover print is the back side), the left oblique "" for yarn fabrics in twill fabrics and the right oblique "\" for line fabrics are the front side.
Inspection rules
According to Fz/T10005.
Marking and packaging
According to Fz/T10010.
A1 Calculation of width, density and breaking strength GB/T 5326-—1997
Appendix A
(Appendix to the standard)
Processing coefficient of combed polyester-cotton blended printed and dyed fabric
According to the product specifications of combed polyester-cotton blended grey fabric, combined with the printing and dyeing process design, the processing coefficient is calculated according to the specified processing coefficient. The processing coefficient is shown in Table Al.
Fine plain cloth
Yarn khaki
Yarn khaki, gabardine
Width processing coefficient
Processing coefficient
Density processing coefficient
If the weft yarn has not been fixed at 40℃ or above, the width processing coefficient can be set separately. Weft yarn
Breaking strength processing coefficient
2 For thin fabrics (such as meyer yarn, etc.) and fabrics processed by special technology, and varieties without processing coefficient, the intrinsic quality can be ordered separately. A2 Calculation method
A2.1 Standard width
Where: w-
Standard width, cm;
W. —Standard width of combed polyester-cotton natural color cloth, cm; K—Width processing coefficient.
A2.2 Standard warp yarn density
P warp = Po grade X Kp warp
Where: P warp
Standard warp density of combed polyester-cotton printed and dyed cloth, root/10cm, Standard warp density of combed polyester-cotton natural color cloth, root/10cm; Kp
Warp yarn density processing coefficient of combed polyester-cotton printed and dyed cloth. A2.3 Standard weft density
Pu = Po pure × Km
Wherein: m
standard weft density of combed polyester-cotton printed and dyed fabric, root/10cm; Po—standard weft density of combed polyester-cotton natural fabric, root/10cm; Kpt
-processing coefficient of weft density of combed polyester-cotton printed and dyed fabric. A2.4 Standard warp breaking strength
P warp = Poε × KP × K
Wherein: P warp - standard warp breaking strength of combed polyester-cotton printed and dyed fabric, N; 102
（A1）
（A2)
.（A3)
（A4)
Po warp—
KP warp
GB/T5326—1997
-standard warp breaking strength of combed polyester-cotton natural fabric, N; processing coefficient of warp breaking strength of combed polyester-cotton printed and dyed fabric; processing coefficient of warp yarn density of combed polyester-cotton printed and dyed fabric. A2.5 Standard weft breaking strength
P pure-Po thread × Kp weft × K
Wherein. P standard weft breaking strength of combed polyester-cotton printed and dyed fabric, NPo
- standard weft breaking strength of combed polyester-cotton natural color fabric, N; Kp-weft breaking strength processing coefficient of combed polyester-cotton printed and dyed fabric; K. Weft yarn density processing coefficient of combed polyester-cotton printed and dyed fabric. Appendix B
(Standard Appendix)
Correction of temperature and regain for measuring breaking strength at room temperature (A5)
When measuring breaking strength at a factory, if the measuring conditions do not meet the standard temperature and humidity, it can be carried out under room temperature. The test strength should be corrected according to the "Strength Correction Coefficient Table", but the temperature and humidity at the test site should be kept stable. B1 Breaking strength correction formula
Corrected breaking strength [N (kgf)] - measured breaking strength [N (kgf)] × strength correction coefficient.
B2 Strength correction coefficient value
The strength correction coefficient value of printed and dyed fabrics with a polyester-cotton blending ratio of 65/35 is in accordance with Table A1 of ZB/TW04006.3-89, see the attachment. The strength correction coefficient of polyester-cotton blended printed and dyed fabrics containing 50% or more polyester staple fibers blended with cotton can also refer to this table. Appendix C
(Suggested Appendix)
Internal control items for combed polyester-cotton blended printed and dyed fabrics
C1Indicator numbers of various internal control items
C1.1Elongation at break See Table C1.
Elongation at break of different varieties
Yarn fine plain cloth
Yarn poplin
Yarn khaki
Dyeing, printing
Dyeing, printing
Yarn khaki, yarn gabardine and other yarn fabrics in the warp direction
not less than
not less than
C1.2 See Table C2 for crease recovery angle.
GB/T 5326—1997
Table C2 Technical requirements for crease recovery angle
Gauze fine plain cloth, gauze poplin
Gauze, line khaki, gabardine and other line fabrics C1.3
See Table C3 for tear strength.
Table C3 Technical requirements for tear strength
Gauze fine plain cloth, gauze poplin
Gauze, line khaki, gabardine and other line fabrics Test methods for various internal control items
C2.1 Elongation at break
Test method shall be in accordance with GB/T3923.1.
C2.2 Crease recovery
Test method shall be in accordance with the vertical method in GB/T3819. C2.3 Tear strength
Test method shall be in accordance with GB/T3919.
General finishing
Not less than
Not less than
686(700)
1078(1100)
Resin finishing
Not less than
cN(gf)
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