Some standard content:
National Standard of the People's Republic of China
Tussah silk
Tussah silk fabrics
1 Subject content and scope of application
This standard specifies the technical conditions, quality identification, packaging and marking and acceptance rules of tuissah silk fabrics. UDC 677.33.063
GB 9127—88
This standard is applicable to the quality assessment of all kinds of pure tuissah silk fabrics in bleaching, dyeing, printing and yarn-dyed, and interwoven fabrics with tuissah silk as the main raw material for warp.
This standard is not applicable to the quality assessment of tuissah silk fabrics with special process tuissah silk as the raw material for warp or weft. 2 Reference standards
GB250 Grey scale for assessing discoloration
GB3920 Test method for color fastness of textiles to rubbingGB3921 Test method for color fastness of textiles to washingGB3922 Test method for color fastness of textiles to perspirationGB3923 Determination of breaking strength and elongation of woven fabrics (strip method)GB4666 Determination of length of woven fabrics
GB4667 Determination of width of woven fabrics
GB4668 Determination of density of woven fabrics
GB4669 Determination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area of woven fabrics GB6152 Test method for color fastness of textiles to heat pressing (ironing) GB8427 Test method for color fastness of textiles to light - Xenon arc GBn235 Test method for silk fabrics
GBn236 Acceptance rules for silk fabrics
GBn237 Packaging and marking of silk fabrics
3 Terminology
3.1 Special process worm silk: coarse fineness worm silk with special style spun by silkworm cocoons or worm silkworms. 3.2 worm knot silk: silk with irregular thick and thin strips or knots twisted on the silk strips artificially during the spun process. 4 Technical requirements
4.1 Physical indicators
4.1.1 Specification indicators
See Table 1 for the width, weft density and weight tolerances of worm silk fabrics. Approved by the Ministry of Textile Industry of the People's Republic of China on June 6, 1988 and implemented on January 1, 1989
Fabric Types
Ordinary Fabrics
Squeezed Silk Fabrics
4.1.2 Breaking Strength Index
GB 9127-88
The tolerance of the breaking strength in the warp and weft directions of vertebral silk fabrics is -10%. The standard breaking strength is calculated according to the provisions of Appendix A (Supplement). 4.1.3 Shrinkage Index
Shrinkage index for silk fabrics: not more than 5% in the warp direction and not more than 3% in the weft direction. Shrinkage is not assessed for whitened vertebral silk fabrics. 4.2 Color Fastness
The color fastness index for vertebral silk fabrics is specified in Table 2. Table 2
Grading regulations
Perspiration resistance
Ironing resistance
Dry friction resistance
5.1 The physical index and dyeing fastness of vertebral silk fabrics are the internal quality. The defects on the silk surface are the appearance quality. Resistance
5.2 Grading of vertebral silk fabrics: The width and weft density of the appearance quality and the internal quality are graded by piece, and the others are graded by criticism. The grades are divided into superior, first, second and third grades, and those below the third grade are substandard. 5.3 The grade of vertebral silk fabrics is assessed by the sum of the starting points of the internal quality grade and the appearance quality grade. The grading method is shown in Table 3. Table 3
Appearance quality grade
Finished product grade
Superior product
Internal quality grade
Superior product
: First-class product
Raw first-class product
Out-of-pipe product
Superior product
"First-class product
Second-class product
Third-class product
Off-class product
"First-class product
Main first-class product
Third-class product||tt ||Substandard goods
Second-class goods
Third-class goods
Third-class goods
Third-class goods
Substandard goods
Third-class goods
Third-class goods
Third-class goods
Blue-class goods
Third-class goods
Substandard goods
Substandard goods
Substandard goods
Substandard goods
Substandard goods:
Substandard goods
Substandard goods
Substandard goods
GB 9127—88
5.4 Evaluation of internal quality
5.4.1 Evaluation of the internal quality of silk fabrics shall be based on the lowest grade among the items. 5.4.2
See Table 4 for the evaluation of width and weft density indicators.
Tolerance, %
For the evaluation of the re-rolling index, please refer to Table 5.
Tolerance, %
For fabric types
Ordinary fabrics
Silk fabrics
5.4.4For the evaluation of breaking strength index, please refer to Table 6. Grade
Tolerance, %
Breaking strength
Superior products
+2.0 and below
- 2.0 and above
-3.0 and above
Superior products
-4.0 and above
-5.0 and above
·: Superior products
Second-class products
-10.0 and above
Note: Silk fabrics are not subject to the breaking strength test. The rating of shrinkage index is shown in Table 7.
Tolerance,
Shrinkage
Superior products
3.0 and below
2.0 and below
First-class products
+2.1 ~+3.0
-2.1~-3.0
-3.1~- 5.0
First-class products
- 4.1~-5. 0www.bzxz.net
Second-class products
Above +3.0
Below -3.0
Third-class products
Below 8.0
Second-class products
Below -5.0
- 5.1～- 7. 0
Third-class products
Second-class products
- 10.1 ~ - 15.0
First-class products
- 15.1 ~ - 20 .0
Second-class products
-7.0 or less
Substandard products
-20.0 or less
Third-class products
8.0 or more
6.0 or more
GB 9127-88
5.4.6 Evaluation of color fastness: Products that are half a grade or more higher than the index specified in Article 4.2 are superior products, those that are equal to them are first-class products, and those that are half a grade or more lower than them are second-class products.
5.5 Evaluation of appearance quality
5.5.1 The appearance quality of vertebral silk fabrics is graded by limited cumulative evaluation. 5.5.2 Determination of the grade of appearance quality
Width 114cm or less:
Superior products are allowed 1 spot for every 7m,
First-class products are allowed 1 spot for every 4m or less,
Second-class products are allowed 1 to 2 spots for every 4m or less,
Third-class products
are allowed 2 to 4 spots for every 4m or less, and substandard products
are allowed 4 or more spots for every 4m or less.
Width 114cm or more:
Superior products
First-class products
Second-class products
Third-class products
Substandard products
One defect is allowed for every 6m,
One defect is allowed for every 3m or less
One or more defects are allowed for every 3m or less, 2 or more defects are allowed for every 3m or less, and 4 or more defects are allowed for every 3m or less.
For the evaluation of appearance scattered defects, see Table 8.
Defect category
Defect degree
Edge color depth
1 to 2cm away from the edge
3% to 4″
More than 4%
For the evaluation of appearance chip defects, see Table 9.5.5.4
Determination of degree:
①Compare with standard sample,
②Compare with GB250, 3-4 levels are common,
3 levels and below are obvious
Compare with GB250, 3-4 levels and below are common
, 2-3 levels and below are obvious
Calculation formula:
Weft skew (%) =
Maximum distance between weaving groups
Actual width
①Numbness of silk surface Slight splash is ordinary;
②Splash on the silk surface and weak hand feeling is obvious×100
Defect category
Ordinary (Grade 4
and below)
Obvious (Grade 3
and below)
Ordinary (Grade 3-4
and below)
Obvious (Grade 2-3
and below)
Edge defect
Defect category name description
GB 9127-88
Defect length
(1) 5~30cm, continuous every 30cm
(2) Width Warp 20~100cm, continuous every 50~100cm3~20cm, continuous every 20cm
(1) More than half width
(2) Weft More than 1cm
3c㎡~ Half width
More than half width
Width 15cm and less, continuous every 15cm
Width 15cm and less, continuous Every 15cm
(1) 1cm and less, continuous every 1cm
(2) Broken edge every 1～10cm
1~～10cm, continuous every 10cm
Every 100cm
Every 4 and less
.Every 33cm and less in warp
Every 33cm and less in warp
Line: The defect extends along the warp or weft direction, and the width does not exceed 0.2cm. Strip: The defect extends along the warp or weft direction, and the width is more than 0.2cm. Spot: The width is more than 0.2cm.
Weft bar: Weft bar-shaped defect with more than two shuttles. 5.5.5.4
GB 912788
5.5.5.5 Minor defect: Local defect that is not enough to be evaluated. 5.5.6 Evaluation of local defects in appearance
5.5.6.1 The length of the defect is measured according to the maximum length in the warp or weft direction, and the direction with the heavier evaluation is evaluated. 5.5.6.2 Determination of the starting point of the defect degree
a. Compare with the standard sample;
b. Compare with GB250, and start the evaluation from level 4 and below (except for those specified in Table 9). 5.5.6.3 Except for damage, defects within 1 cm from the edge are evaluated as bad edges. 5.5.6.4 Small spots of silk fabrics that do not affect the appearance of the silk surface are not counted. 5.5.6.5 Overlapping defects are evaluated according to the more serious one. 5.5.6.6 Two or more linear defects in the warp or weft direction are measured as one line with a distribution width of 10 cm or less, and the maximum length of each defect starting point is measured.
If one defect has reached the downgrade limit, and there are other defects at the same time, the total number of defects for the piece of silk shall be the number of starting points of the downgrade plus the number of defects in 5.5.6.7
of other defects. 5.5.7 Cutting and splicing and marking and measuring
5.5.7.1 Cutting and splicing or marking and measuring are allowed for local serious defects in silk fabrics. However, only one of the two can be used in the same batch. 5.5.7.2 The following defects are not allowed in excellent and ...-grade products, and the following defects should be cut off in the factory: rips and spider webs;
Obvious stains of more than 4 cm,
Serious hook and loop, hair removal, weft opening and wrong weft; other similar serious defects.
5.5.7.3 Cut and Splice
5.5.7.3.1 Pieces between 25m and 40m in length can be spliced in two sections, and pieces over 40m in length can be spliced in three sections. The shortest length of cut and splice pieces shall not be less than 5m. 5.5.7.3.2 The width, color, pattern and grade of each section of cut and splice pieces must be consistent. 5.5.7.4 Defect Marking Length
5.5.7.4.1 The web piece can be marked once every 10m or less on average, and the mark length for each defect is 20cm. The warp length of the defect point can be marked once within 30cm. Continuous defects exceeding 30cm can be marked continuously, and the marking interval of local defects shall not be less than 4m. 5.5.7.4.2 Defects will no longer be evaluated cumulatively. Silk pieces that have exceeded the allowed number of defects are not allowed to be marked again, and the evaluation will still be cumulative and the grade will be downgraded step by step. 6 Test and inspection methods
6.1 Intrinsic quality test methods
6.1.1 Length test method shall be implemented in accordance with GB4666. 6.1.2 Width test method shall be implemented in accordance with GB4667. 6.1.3 Density test method shall be implemented in accordance with GB4668. 6.1.4 Weight test method shall be implemented in accordance with GB4669. 6.1.5 Breaking strength test method shall be implemented in accordance with GB3923. 6.1.6 Shrinkage test method shall be implemented in accordance with Chapter 7 Shrinkage test method A in GBn235. 6.1.7 Washing color fastness test method shall be implemented in accordance with GB3921+16.3.11 Test solution 1 formulation and test conditions method 1. 6.1.8 Juice stain color fastness test method shall be implemented in accordance with GB3922. 6.1.9· Rubbing color fastness test method shall be implemented in accordance with GB3920. 6.1.10 The ironing color fastness test method shall be implemented in accordance with the GB6152 method. 6.1.11 The light fastness color fastness test method shall be implemented in accordance with GB8427. 6.2 Appearance quality inspection method
6.2.1 Equipment conditions
The appearance quality inspection is carried out on the warp silk inspection machine. 6.2.1.1
GB9127-88
The silk inspection machine table is black, and the angle with the horizontal plane is 65°. The light source is a fluorescent lamp (daylight color, correlated color temperature 6500K), the angle between the plane where the lamp tube is located and the plane of the table is 30°±2°, and the average illumination of the table surface is 600~7001x. Direct sunlight should be avoided on the table, and the external light source should be controlled below 1501x. 6.2.1.4 The silk inspection speed of the silk inspection machine is 20±5m/min, and the arbitration speed is 20m/min. 6.2.2 Inspection method
6.2.2.1 The inspection of appearance quality shall be based on the front of the silk surface laid flat along the warp direction. 6.2.2.2 The inspector shall look directly at the silk surface, with the eyes 80 to 90 cm away from the center of the silk surface. 6.2.2.3 One person shall inspect for a width of 114 cm or less, and two persons shall inspect for a width of more than 114 cm. 7 Acceptance rules
The acceptance rules for vertebral silk fabrics shall refer to GBn236. 8 Packaging and marking
The packaging and marking of vertebral silk fabrics shall be implemented in accordance with GBn237. 9 Others
If the user has special requirements for quality, it can be implemented according to the agreement or contract between the supply and demand parties. 29
Calculation formula of standard breaking strength:
Where: Q
GB 9127--88
Appendix A
Calculation method of standard breaking strength
(Supplement)
2 × 100
Standard breaking strength, N/5cm×20cm;
Single fiber breaking strength of warp or weft, cN/dtex, fineness of warp or weft, dtex;
-density of warp or weft, root/10cm; Strength processing coefficient.
Breaking strength Q value, calculated to one decimal place, rounded to an integer according to the digital rounding rules. Single fiber breaking strength P is as specified in Table A1.
Silkworm water silk
Silkworm medicine water silk
Silkworm spun silk
Mulberry silk
Viscose filament
Nylon filament
Polyester filament
The strength processing coefficient K value is as specified in Table A2.
Raw material category
Silkworm water nest silk
Silkworm medicinal water silk
Silkworm spun silk
Single fiber breaking strength
cN /dtex (gf /D)
1.6(1.78)
3.2(3.60)
1.3(1.50)
4.0（4.50）
3.5(4.00)
Raw material category
Mulberry silk
Viscose filament
Nylon filament
Polyester filament
65/35 polyester-cotton blended yarn
65/35 polyester-viscose blended yarn
GB 9127--88
Continued Table A2
Note: Except for silkworm water silk, silkworm medicine water silk and silkworm spun silk, the table is quoted from GBi229 "Technical Requirements for Mulberry Silk Fabrics" A Short Fiber Yarn Breaking Strength
A4.The single yarn breaking strength of 165/35 polyester-viscose blended yarn shall be as specified in Table A3. Table A3
Name of product (Imperial count)
tex (count)
(42 ~37)
17 ~19
(35~30)
(29 ~24)
(23 ~19)
(18~16)
14 × 2 ~ 16 ×2
(42 / 2 ~ 37 / 2)
Single yarn breaking strength
cN/tex (gf /tex)
11.8(12.0)
12.7 (13.0)
13.2(13.5)
14.7 (15.0)
16.2 (16.5)
14.2 (14.5)
Name of the national system (imperial count)
tex (count)
17× 2 ~19× 2
(35/2~30/2）
20 × 2 ~ 24 × 2
(29/224/ 2)
25×2～30×2
(23/2 ~19/ 2 )
GB 9127—88
Continued Table A3
Single yarn breaking strength
cN/tex (gf/tex)
14.7 (15.0)
15.7 (16.0)
17.2 (17.5)
Note: It is quoted from the first-class regulations in FJ511 "Natural medium-length polyester-viscose blended yarn" (values in brackets in the table). A4.2 The breaking strength of single yarn of polyester-cotton blended yarn (polyester content above 60%) shall be in accordance with the regulations in Table A4. Table A4
Texas series
14 ~16
17 ~ 20
21 ~24
32 and above
Single yarn breakage
cn /tex (gf /tex)
12.7(13.0)
13.7 (14.0)
14.2(14.5)
14.7(15.0)
15.7(16.0)
16.7 (17.0)
18.1 (18.5)
Note: Cited from GB5324 "Combed polyester-cotton blended grey yarn". 32
Tex series
8 × 2 ~10 × 2
11 × 2 ~13 × 2
14 × 2 ~16 × 2
17 × 2 ~ 20 × 2
21 × 2~24 × 2
25×2 ~30×2
32×2 and above
Single yarn gradual crack
cN /tex（gf/tex)
16.7 (17.0)
17.6 (18.0)
18.6(19.0)
19.6(20.0)
20.6（21.0)
21.6(22.0)
23.5 (24.0)
B1 Warp defects
GB 9127—88
Appendix B
Description of defect categories
(Supplement)
Warp willow, willow, color willow, pulp willow, wide warp, urgent warp, how many twists, divided warp path, forked twist path, inverted broken ends, broken handle hang, wrong handle hang, clamped up, star, strand dropped, wrong threading, wrong threading, missing warp, broken silk, wide and urgent warp, clamped broken ends, broken roughness, straight wrinkle print, drag wrinkle print, stained warp.
B2 Weft defects
Elasticity, coarse and fine weft, shrinkage, wide and fast weft, broken silk, broken flower weft, rib weft, wool weft, twist, wool removal, switch, pry small weft, twist through weft, joint weft, loose weft, pry, wrinkle, smooth fiber weft, color weft, wrong flower, broken paper, belt weft, rough weft, broken weft, overlapped weft, weft, heald frame, throw paper, wrong pattern, wrong weft, shuttle jump, shuttle rolling mark, horizontal folding mark, weft stain. B3 Damage
Hole, spider web, tear, pull injury, broken edge, mending mark, sundries woven in. B4 Spots
Color stains, rust stains, oil stains, mildew stains, washing stains, wax stains, water stains, soap stains, white fog, overlap, color slip, slurry leakage, reverse silk, split, white wrinkle marks.
B5 Bad edges
Wide and sharp edges, wood ear edges, spit edges, curled edges, thick and thin edges, rough edges, and unclean edges. B6 Printing defects
Overlapping, blocking, overlapping printing, frame printing, scraper printing, color spots, silk screen printing, eye circles, bubbles, double printing, skewness, white spots, sand eyes, thick and thin stems, double stems, dragging, back-paste printing, brushing printing, melting, blurring, color wrinkles, flower marks, paint falling off, seepage, jump plate depth, plate printing, wild flowers, bending, unclear carving color, unclear paint recoloring, and bursting. B7
Small prying, weft slant, loose plate printing, chicken claw printing, hanging printing, wrinkle printing, calender printing, shaft wrinkle printing, dark color (including color flower, ground color, depth, front and back depth, head and tail depth, left and right depth, white flower with color, flower printing, poor training), fiber damage (including gray damage, rubbed hair, rubbed white, shuttle hair, shuttle white, warp hair and weft hair, white, automatic width support rubbed damage). B8 Among the above types of defects, some defects may be common, and their categories should be determined according to the actual form. B9 If defects not included in this standard appear on the silk surface, they can be evaluated according to similar defects based on the form. Additional notes:
This standard was proposed by the Silk Administration Bureau of the Ministry of Textile Industry. This standard was drafted by the Liaoning Silk Inspection Institute. The main drafters of this standard are Jiang Shuang, Liu Mingyi, Wu Zhenshun, Wang Bin, and Yu Shuli. 336 (18.0)
18.6(19.0)
19.6(20.0)
20.6（21.0)
21.6(22.0)
23.5 (24.0)
B1 Warp defects
GB 9127—88
Appendix B
Description of defect categories
(Supplement)
Warp willow, willow, color willow, pulp willow, wide warp, urgent warp, how many twists, divided warp path, forked twist path, inverted broken ends, broken handle hang, wrong handle hang, clamped up, star, strand dropped, wrong threading, wrong threading, missing warp, broken thread, wide and urgent warp, clamped broken ends, broken roughness, straight wrinkle print, drag wrinkle print, stained warp.
B2 Weft defects
Elasticity, coarse and fine weft, shrinkage, wide and fast weft, broken silk, broken flower weft, rib weft, wool weft, twist, wool removal, switch, pry small weft, twist through weft, joint weft, loose weft, pry, wrinkle, smooth fiber weft, color weft, wrong flower, broken paper, belt weft, rough weft, broken weft, overlapped weft, weft, heald frame, throw paper, wrong pattern, wrong weft, shuttle jump, shuttle rolling mark, horizontal folding mark, weft stain. B3 Damage
Hole, spider web, tear, pull injury, broken edge, mending mark, sundries woven in. B4 Spots
Color stains, rust stains, oil stains, mildew stains, washing stains, wax stains, water stains, soap stains, white fog, overlap, color slip, slurry leakage, reverse silk, split, white wrinkle marks.
B5 Bad edges
Wide and sharp edges, wood ear edges, spit edges, curled edges, thick and thin edges, rough edges, and unclean edges. B6 Printing defects
Overlapping, blocking, overlapping printing, frame printing, scraper printing, color spots, silk screen printing, eye circles, bubbles, double printing, skewness, white spots, sand eyes, thick and thin stems, double stems, dragging, back-paste printing, brushing printing, melting, blurring, color wrinkles, flower marks, paint falling off, seepage, jump plate depth, plate printing, wild flowers, bending, unclear carving color, unclear paint recoloring, and bursting. B7
Small prying, weft slant, loose plate printing, chicken claw printing, hanging printing, wrinkle printing, calender printing, shaft wrinkle printing, dark color (including color flower, ground color, depth, front and back depth, head and tail depth, left and right depth, white flower with color, flower printing, poor training), fiber damage (including gray damage, rubbed hair, rubbed white, shuttle hair, shuttle white, warp hair and weft hair, white, automatic width support rubbed damage). B8 Among the above types of defects, some defects may be common, and their categories should be determined according to the actual form. B9 If defects not included in this standard appear on the silk surface, they can be evaluated according to similar defects based on the form. Additional notes:
This standard was proposed by the Silk Administration Bureau of the Ministry of Textile Industry. This standard was drafted by the Liaoning Silk Inspection Institute. The main drafters of this standard are Jiang Shuang, Liu Mingyi, Wu Zhenshun, Wang Bin, and Yu Shuli. 336 (18.0)
18.6(19.0)
19.6(20.0)
20.6（21.0)
21.6(22.0)
23.5 (24.0)
B1 Warp defects
GB 9127—88
Appendix B
Description of defect categories
(Supplement)
Warp willow, willow, color willow, pulp willow, wide warp, urgent warp, how many twists, divided warp path, forked twist path, inverted broken ends, broken handle hang, wrong handle hang, clamped up, star, strand dropped, wrong threading, wrong threading, missing warp, broken thread, wide and urgent warp, clamped broken ends, broken roughness, straight wrinkle print, drag wrinkle print, stained warp.
B2 Weft defects
Elasticity, coarse and fine weft, shrinkage, wide and fast weft, broken silk, broken flower weft, rib weft, wool weft, twist, wool removal, switch, pry small weft, twist through weft, joint weft, loose weft, pry, wrinkle, smooth fiber weft, color weft, wrong flower, broken paper, belt weft, rough weft, broken weft, overlapped weft, weft, heald frame, throw paper, wrong pattern, wrong weft, shuttle jump, shuttle rolling mark, horizontal folding mark, weft stain. B3 Damage
Hole, spider web, tear, pull injury, broken edge, mending mark, sundries woven in. B4 Spots
Color stains, rust stains, oil stains, mildew stains, washing stains, wax stains, water stains, soap stains, white fog, overlap, color slip, slurry leakage, reverse silk, split, white wrinkle marks.
B5 Bad edges
Wide and sharp edges, wood ear edges, spit edges, curled edges, thick and thin edges, rough edges, and unclean edges. B6 Printing defects
Overlapping, blocking, overlapping printing, frame printing, scraper printing, color spots, silk screen printing, eye circles, bubbles, double printing, skewness, white spots, sand eyes, thick and thin stems, double stems, dragging, back-paste printing, brushing printing, melting, blurring, color wrinkles, flower marks, paint falling off, seepage, jump plate depth, plate printing, wild flowers, bending, unclear carving color, unclear paint recoloring, and bursting. B7
Small prying, weft slant, loose plate printing, chicken claw printing, hanging printing, wrinkle printing, calender printing, shaft wrinkle printing, dark color (including color flower, ground color, depth, front and back depth, head and tail depth, left and right depth, white flower with color, flower printing, poor training), fiber damage (including gray damage, rubbed hair, rubbed white, shuttle hair, shuttle white, warp hair and weft hair, white, automatic width support rubbed damage). B8 Among the above types of defects, some defects may be common, and their categories should be determined according to the actual form. B9 If defects not included in this standard appear on the silk surface, they can be evaluated according to similar defects based on the form. Additional notes:
This standard was proposed by the Silk Administration Bureau of the Ministry of Textile Industry. This standard was drafted by the Liaoning Silk Inspection Institute. The main drafters of this standard are Jiang Shuang, Liu Mingyi, Wu Zhenshun, Wang Bin, and Yu Shuli. 33
Tip: This standard content only shows part of the intercepted content of the complete standard. If you need the complete standard, please go to the top to download the complete standard document for free.